Society Islands

On the 28th august, we leave Fakarava under a storm... We sail the 250 miles that separate Tuamotu islands from Society islands (Tahiti is our heading) under storm sail (which we didn´t use since the gulf of Biscay!) as the wind blows strong 48 hours non stop. Demelza sails along with us and the arrival is really strange for both of us. On one hand we are glad to arrive but on the other hand, to discover Papeete, the main city of Tahiti is really disappointing : noise, pollution and no charm at all. Just the contrary of what we had in the Tuamotu. It´s hard to come back to civilization. Happily, we are so busy until Thomas´ parents arrive, 3 days later, that we can´t find time to complain. We work on the boat, get medical check up, update the web site and buy food for the coming weeks. There is at least a good point here, kind of consolation: fresh products ! We can find almost everything and just rediscover the taste of Reblochon, fruits and vegetables. Within 3 days we spend more than what we spent during the last 3 months ! We get visit from Antoine and Virginie, a really nice belgian couple and their daughter Stella, met in the Marquesas on Sunday Morning, a wonderful 75 feet sailboat. They were passing by and recocnized Cephee´s colors. Once again we get the confirmation that it is worth to have a colored boat ! We promise to visit them in Raiatea soon, as they are anchored there.

Alain and Maryse arrive on the 2nd of September, we´re rally happy to see them. They brought us a lots of surprises and we decide not to stay longer in Papeete, we leave for Huahine. Just a little goodbye to Jean-Pierre and Josy who soon will go back to France for the winter.

Society islands are at an intermediate stage of evolution between Marquesas (volcano island) and Tuamotu (atoll). Hence, they have both, an island and a lagoon which is, for sailors, a kind of paradise as you get protection from both the wind and the swell. In counterpart, they are more visited and less wild than the Marquesas, Gambier, Australes or Tuamotus.

Huahine is charming : Wooded, colored, friendly... A whale even welcomes us in the pass, which seems to happen quite frequently at this period of the year since they come here to give birth and then head towards the north. Fish are less frequent, probably because of the active fishing and we only see big species in protected zones, in the vicinity of the hotels. We swim, ride bikes and hike to discover the island. After a while, we move on to Raiatea. 2 islands share a common lagoon : Tahaa and Raiatea. On Tahaa, we enjoy the beauty of the lagoon and the nature of this small and pretty island. The last day before we leave the parents, Maryse gets a SMS which says that Cecile and Alexandre, Hélène´s sister and her boyfriend, gave birth to Juliette on the 11th September. Great news !

We now go to Raiatea, where we meet Nico and Julien, our friends from Hamburg. It´s so great to see again ! Again, they brought surprises that touch us a lot. We spend some days in Tahaa´s lagoon and get the chance to see whales, tortoise, clown fish (Hélène´s first !), sharks, rays and wonderful corals.

Visiting Raiatea by car makes us discover tahitian vanilla secrets and offers us some great views on the lagoon and the island peaks. Nico and Julien discover luxuous on Sunday Morning, our belgian friends´ boat with whom we spend very nice moments. It's hard to convince them after that of Cephee´s comfort !

We sail to Bora Bora, the mythical Polynesian island, which finally illustrates marketing power. Jet skis and luxuous hotels share the lagoon and don´t really worry about authenticity and nature´s beauty. Whatever... We enjoy the turquoise lagoon and are happy to have spent more time on the other islands which have nothing to envy to Bora Bora.

Once again, we have to say goodbye to our friends as a long navigation await us : 2200 miles to reach New-Caledonia, with a stop in the midway in the Tonga archipelago.

Thank you for the surprises brought by Alain, Maryse, Nico and Julien, they´ll help us during our watches (especially chocolate !)

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A local recipe:

Mahi Mahi scalops in vanilla sauce

Mahi Mahi is a fish that you won´t find to buy in Europe but you can replace it by any kind of white meat fish...

4 fish scalops, 75 g butter, 50 cl white wine, 25 g shalots, 125 g cream, 2 vanilla cods, 1/2 tsp vanilla powder, salt, pepper

For the sauce : Cut shalots finely. Cut vanilla cods longitudinaly to get the pulp.

Cook the shalots in butter 5 minutes, then add the wine and the vanilla pulp. Let reduce on low heat until you get a syrup. Add the cream, bring to boil and add some salt and pepper and the vanilla powder. Remove from fire and keep warm while you prepare the fish.

For the fish : Cook the scalops in a fry pan.

Pour sauce on the fish and decorate with parsley.

An original sauce as we are used to have vanilla with sweet preparations. Try it you will love !