Panama
After
our stop in the Aves, we are back to the civilization in Curacao
which belongs to the Netherlands. Cars and hotels invaded the
island which doesn´t offer much interest for sailors,
except an occasion to buy fresh products and wait for a good
weather window before crossing the carribean "Cape Horn".
The north Columbian cape is famous for its rough seas, a lot
of boats have problems there.
On the 26th February, a good weather window motivates us to
leave Curacao. The sea is agitated but we can´t complain,
we already had worse conditions. After 5 days sailing, we reach
the San Blas archipelago, in the north east of Panama. This
archipelago is a piece of paradise. Colours, people, snorkelling,
The San Blas offer us a week of pure happiness. One week, this
is too short, but we´ll come back
The canal is waiting
for us.
An overnight sailing and we reach the entrance of the bay to
the Panama canal. We are surrounded by huge ships. We have to
find our way among these monsters. All the countries are represented
: China, Japan, Germany, Turkey,
Ships from all over the
world merge here to change ocean. It´s extraordinary.
The formalities to cross the canal always change. Happily, boats
inform each other about the tricks to avoid loosing time and
money.
But we still have to wait almost 3 weeks before we cross ! Yes,
sailboats don´t have priority, they are even disturbing,
and unless you add 2000 dollars to the 600 you already have
to pay, to be assured to cross within 2 days, you have to wait.
Our theoritical passage date is the 29th march (but it was changed
2 times already).
We now have to find 40m long lines, tyres to protect the boat
and 3 line handlers, then we´ll be ready. We do a lot
of small things on the boat, exchange infos, stories and drinks
with other boats of the anchorage, time flies. Colon is an hugly
city with destroyed houses. In the center, we have the feeling
a war occurred, as all buildings are in ruines, except for the
Mc Donalds. Not far, the canal which makes millions of dollars
and the free zone with its luxurious shops tease the 50% unemployed
people of the city. Only the buses and people's smiles give
a color touch to this sad place.
At the anchorage, SKYE, a canadian boat met in Cabo Verde is
about to transit through the canal. After 7 years sailing over
the world, John and Kathleen go back home to Vancouver. They
propose us to be their handliners which is a good opportunity
for us to get a canal experience.
The 16th march, as night is falling, we leave the anchorage
on their boat in direction to the Gatun locks. These are 3 "steps"
going up (12 meters each) which lead to the huge artificial
Gatun lake. 3 sailboats are attached together and share the
canal with a big ship. Going up is very impressive, we feel
like in a big jacuzzi.
The following day, we cross the lake (about 20 miles) and then
go down (Pedro Miguel and Miraflores locks) to finally arrive
on the Pacific ocean.
The canal crossing is a fantastic experience. Let´s hope
that Céphée will reach the Pacific without problems
on the 30th march !
A
local recipe
Roast Pork
- Lechón asado:
Pork, approx.
30 lb, 3 tbs salt, 2 beef bouillon cube, 2 garlic cloves, 2
tbs oregano, 1 tsp pepper, 2 tbs annatto seeds, 1 cup sour orange
juice, cilantro to taste
Mash the garlic
well with the salt, oregano, pepper, bouillon cube and annatto
seeds. With this paste and the juice, condiment the pork and
let it marinate overnight. Put it in the oven covered for 2
hours at 350°F and then let it cook uncovered for an additional
30 minutes until brown. The pork is ready once you can pinch
it and liquid does not come out. To roast a leg of a pork, use
the same recipe, just remove the skin and the fat before marinating.
Good appetite
!