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Panama

After our stop in the Aves, we are back to the civilization in Curacao which belongs to the Netherlands. Cars and hotels invaded the island which doesn´t offer much interest for sailors, except an occasion to buy fresh products and wait for a good weather window before crossing the carribean "Cape Horn". The north Columbian cape is famous for its rough seas, a lot of boats have problems there.
On the 26th February, a good weather window motivates us to leave Curacao. The sea is agitated but we can´t complain, we already had worse conditions. After 5 days sailing, we reach the San Blas archipelago, in the north east of Panama. This archipelago is a piece of paradise. Colours, people, snorkelling,… The San Blas offer us a week of pure happiness. One week, this is too short, but we´ll come back… The canal is waiting for us.
An overnight sailing and we reach the entrance of the bay to the Panama canal. We are surrounded by huge ships. We have to find our way among these monsters. All the countries are represented : China, Japan, Germany, Turkey,… Ships from all over the world merge here to change ocean. It´s extraordinary.
The formalities to cross the canal always change. Happily, boats inform each other about the tricks to avoid loosing time and money.
But we still have to wait almost 3 weeks before we cross ! Yes, sailboats don´t have priority, they are even disturbing, and unless you add 2000 dollars to the 600 you already have to pay, to be assured to cross within 2 days, you have to wait.
Our theoritical passage date is the 29th march (but it was changed 2 times already).
We now have to find 40m long lines, tyres to protect the boat and 3 line handlers, then we´ll be ready. We do a lot of small things on the boat, exchange infos, stories and drinks with other boats of the anchorage, time flies. Colon is an hugly city with destroyed houses. In the center, we have the feeling a war occurred, as all buildings are in ruines, except for the Mc Donalds. Not far, the canal which makes millions of dollars and the free zone with its luxurious shops tease the 50% unemployed people of the city. Only the buses and people's smiles give a color touch to this sad place.
At the anchorage, SKYE, a canadian boat met in Cabo Verde is about to transit through the canal. After 7 years sailing over the world, John and Kathleen go back home to Vancouver. They propose us to be their handliners which is a good opportunity for us to get a canal experience.
The 16th march, as night is falling, we leave the anchorage on their boat in direction to the Gatun locks. These are 3 "steps" going up (12 meters each) which lead to the huge artificial Gatun lake. 3 sailboats are attached together and share the canal with a big ship. Going up is very impressive, we feel like in a big jacuzzi.
The following day, we cross the lake (about 20 miles) and then go down (Pedro Miguel and Miraflores locks) to finally arrive on the Pacific ocean.
The canal crossing is a fantastic experience. Let´s hope that Céphée will reach the Pacific without problems on the 30th march !

A local recipe

Roast Pork - Lechón asado:

Pork, approx. 30 lb, 3 tbs salt, 2 beef bouillon cube, 2 garlic cloves, 2 tbs oregano, 1 tsp pepper, 2 tbs annatto seeds, 1 cup sour orange juice, cilantro to taste

Mash the garlic well with the salt, oregano, pepper, bouillon cube and annatto seeds. With this paste and the juice, condiment the pork and let it marinate overnight. Put it in the oven covered for 2 hours at 350°F and then let it cook uncovered for an additional 30 minutes until brown. The pork is ready once you can pinch it and liquid does not come out. To roast a leg of a pork, use the same recipe, just remove the skin and the fat before marinating.

Good appetite !


 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

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