On the 30th of October, we leave Tenerife in the morning to sail over 750 miles to Sal, in Cape Verde, where we´ll meet Lucie on the 8th of November. Zombi foresees to leave in 2 days, we´ll probably meet in Sal.

Wind is good during the whole crossing. The sea is a bit agitated but we can´t complain. Hélène prepares bread and shares the dough in two parts : one is baked in oven, the other in a cooker. We get a crispy bread while the other is elastic... (it reminds us of a Gaston Lagaffe cake). Well, from now, we know we´ll use the oven !

We sail with the spinnaker when the wind is not too strong and reach a good speed average. We fish nothing, not the least bonita.

After 6 days, we see Sal in the early morning. Not a single light-house to signal the island at night and we see different not signalized wrecks... Let´s say it´s better not to arrive in Cape Verde at night !

The Palmeira bay appears in front of an arid landscape. About ten boats are at the anchorage, near a dozen of colored fisher barges. We go for a walk in Palmeira to buy something for the lunch and get a first contact with Cape Verde.

What a contrast with the Canarias ! While landscapes remind us Graciosa island, people, houses and atmosphere are totally different. The village looks poor. Colored houses contrast to the sandy streets and the no man´s land surrounding the village. People speak a creole portuguese which we don´t understand but they welcome us warmly.

Zidane, a young and very nice capverdian helps us to change Euros against Escudos and make the entrance papers. The harbor master's building is dilapidated and opening times are quite folkloric. We buy some things and are surprised to discover how high the prices are. More expensive than in small french groceries. Only alcool is cheap ! A bottle of Grog (local alcool similar to rum) is less expensive than two kg tomatoes.

At the bar, people are drunk although it is 5 p.m ! It seems to be normal to drink grog at any time of the day...

We sleep 12 hours at a stretch to compensate the last short nights...

Lucie will arrive in 2 days, we take the opportunity to install the water maker and clean up the boat. We adapt ourselves to the village´s rythm : Big agitation at 11 a.m when fishers come back from work (All inhabitants come to welcome them and buy fish which is very cheap, cf movie), then, after the lunch, it is siesta time before the aperitif, which lasts from 4 pm to late at night. During week-ends, music of the disco envades the village.

We go to visit the south of the island, Santa Maria, which is famous for its great surf conditions. The beach is wonderful... Turquoise water and fine sand. We can be sure that it will be invaded with hotels within 10 years. Water temperature is at about 24 °C...

Drive through Sal offers lunar landscapes with wonderful ochre colours.

On the 8th of November, we stay near Cephee as wind is getting stronger and stronger from south. The bay is not protectet against south wind and we prefer not to leave the boat. Helene goes alone to the airport to pick up Lucie. We are lucky that Zidane´s barge is bigger than our dinghy, since it has becomen risky to go on shore.

Lucie´s flight land at 1 a.m, as expected. Violent squalls make the airport roof tremble !

We go back to Palmeira and embark perilously on Zidane´s barge. It requires a good coordination as waves reach 2 meters height. Poor Lucie, after the long journey, she must embark in hard conditions.

We feel better on board ! Outside, it is the chaos. Each skipper watches from his cockpit, in case that a boat would skid. The risk to run aground is quite high as nobody foresaw such a wind and we are all near from each other. (cf movie)

Thomas watches the whole night but the anchor holds good despite waves and squalls. Sometimes, we get showers, we feel like in Britany ! This weather lasts 24 hours, we were said it never rains in cape verde ! Lucie is a bit sick and we stay on board. She came with a lot of good things : Goose liver, everything to prepare real bread (without yeast, thank you Marie for the recipe !), tee, dark chocolate, cheese (St Nectaire, we can´t believe it !), a packet prepared by Florence full of delicious things ! We´ll definetely enjoy our cross through the Atlantic ! Lucie although brought the SSB Antenna tuner.

The sun finally comes out... And the wind turns.. West, and North, the depression has gone. We were very lucky not to have it during the cross, we hope Zombi will have waited in the Canarias.

We bring Lucie to Santa Maria to change our minds. She invites us to the restaurant where we taste fresh grilled fish. We try Garoupa, Waou and Thuna. Delicious ! During the lunch, a very kind journalist interview us about a strip show for tourists in Santa Maria which recently opened. He wants to know our minds. Two days after, our names and minds appear in the Cape Verde local newspaper "A Semana" !

We don´t stay longer in Sal and leave to Sao Nicolau at night. A squalls surprises us, we must put harnesses and boots again, is reminds us our cross in gulfe of Biscay...

We reach Tarrafal at 4 p.m. A boat has landed on the beach after the storm, two days ago. We barely have time to go ashore to buy some food that the wind picks up again, really strong! Again!!! Second storm... This time the wind comes from the north, it's not as bad because the swell doesn't come in the bay. Our wind generator goes crazy... we never saw such squalls: more than 50 knots, it is very impressive, and continues the whole night. Again the anchore holds well. Sometimes the wind stops, it rains like hell, and then starts again, even stronger.

The next day, at midday, the wind suddenly drops, as fast as it came. We can finally go visit the village!

Tarrafal is a bit bigger than Palmeira, but with less colors. The southern part of Sao Nicolau, which we see, is as dry as Sal, but people say that the North is very green.

The next two days we visit the island. The road to Villa da Ribeira Grande, in the middle of the island is really beautiful. On the other side of the mountains, we discover the green side of the island, with banana, papaye, coconut, dragon trees, and as well tomatoes, corn... The difference with the south is really suprising. Houses here are traditionnaly built with stone walls, with bright colors (blue, red, yellow, pink). People here are very nice, they help us find our way and are always courious. At noon, we eat our first Cachup, the national dish: delicious! (see recipee below).

We follow the paved tracks which go through the small villages and offert wonderful eyesights at each turn. Going back the aridity of the south is eaven more surprising!

Coming back to Tarrafal, we ask for bread (it is Sunday and everything is closed). A little kid takes us to the other side of the village. We arrive in a small garage, where a very nice lady has all the fresh bread you need for only a couple escudos. We would have never found the place by ourselves!

That's Cap Verde: few things are written, but if you ask, the locals are very happy to share their secrets with you.

We leave Sao Nicolau and head for Santa Luzia. It is a small deserted island which is known for the many fishes around it's coasts (sharks as well!).

Not eaven arrived that the two baots already there invite us for supper for a home made fish soup. Roberto and Suzanne, Lionel and Mylène have fished a lot today: the soup is excellent! AS for Roberto's bread, we ask him for his secret recipee. We spend the rest of the evening exchanging our adventures.

We spend two days on Santa Luzia, fishing (Thomas shouts Garoupas, red-mullets...!), swimming, and walking on the beach... and eating the fish in delicious sauces.

We head for Sao Vincente, where we anchor in Mindelo, the economical capital of Cabo Verde. We will go with the ferry to Santo Antao, the island which offers the most beatiful walks. Mindelo brings us back to civilisation... restaurents, shops, streets... There are many boats at the anchorage.

The two days on Santo Antao were magical. Like Sao Nicholau, the raod that goes from the South to the North offers great contrasts. Steep maountains and deep valleys are really superbe. The two tracks accross the moutains were we go will give us great views that we will never forget. We cross so many beautiful villages and incredible valleys, the inhabitants are so nice that we already wish to come back some othertime for a longer period.

Lucie has to leave us to go back to Hamburg, and we need to prepare to cross the Atlantic for other discoveries. Cabo Verde will be a great souvenir.

Local recipe :

The Cachupa Rica :

4 cups corn (dry), 1 cup dry white beans, 1 cup dry beans, 1/2 cup dry red beans , 1 chicken, 1 kg pork cotelets, 1 sausage, 1 blood sausage, 4 thin bacon slices, salt, pimento.

Vegetables : 1 kg cabbage, 1 kg tomatoes ,1 kg green bananas, 1 kg yam, 1 kg manioc, 1 kg sweet potatoes, 1 kg pumpkin, 1 onion, 2 garlic cloves, 1 laurel leaf, coriander leaves.

 

One day before, put and leave all beans in cold water. 24 hours later, cook beans and corn in a big quantity of cold water. Add 2 spoons olive oil, onion, garlic, laurel and salt.

Then, add chicken (cut in pieces), tomatoes, pimento (according to taste) and coriander.

In another recipient, cook cabbage, pumpkin with the pork, the bacon. Add sausages at the end, so that they don´t dislocate.

Sweet potatoes, yam, manioc, banana are cooked separately.

When everything is ready, dispose on a dish.